Smocked patterns : An exploration of jacquard woven patterns and smocking techniques for a spatial textile design context

Abstract: This degree work relates to the textile design field where the aim is to design jacquard woven patterns for smocking techniques, in order to create three-dimensional pattern surfaces for a spatial textile design context. Smocking is a traditional embroidery technique where the stitches manipulate the fabric and create decorative areas. Jacquard woven patterns work as templates for the smocking stitches so the pattern shapes the fabric. Bindings and yarn colour combinations were explored in an industrial jacquard machine and tried out with different smocking variations made by hand. Experiments with scale and materials have been done. The result consists of three woven textile objects smocked with two variants of lozenge smocking. The work demonstrates examples of smocked three-dimensional surfaces in various scales and shapes, which can be further developed into interior products, for instance room dividers or sound absorbers. The primary motive was to update the traditional smocking technique with patterns and colours, with the intension to develop a contemporary expression. The smocking technique acts as a method to manipulate patterns and can work as a sketching tool in pattern design. The purpose is to inspire alternative ways of sketching with patterns.