Is second-hand the silver bullet for sustainable fashion consumption?

Abstract: Within the circular economy, alternatives to fast-fashion include second-hand clothing consumption. The narratives surrounding second-hand clothing have shifted from the stigma of old, dirty, smelly clothing to trendy, sustainable, and bargain items. The environmental benefits of second-hand are realised through the increased use-intensity and avoided production of new garments. However, these benefits rely on key assumptions about consumption behaviour which include the 1:1 ratio of replacement of new items with second-hand. This assumption is highly questionable, thus the potential for rebound effects should not be ignored. Using social practice theory, this study aims to investigate the practice of second-hand consumption and uses the insights to investigate rebound effects. The key results show that there are both economic and psychological rebound mechanisms present within second-hand markets. The income effect (economic) shows that consumers purchase more second-hand items due to the low prices. Moral licensing (psychological) shows that consumers become less critical of overconsumption because second-hand purchasing is considered morally good since it is sustainable. Alternatively, they feel good about not purchasing fast-fashion. This study has shown that the environmental benefits of second-hand clothing consumption may be overstated due to consumer behaviour. Overall, it is recommended that further investigation into rebound effects be completed to replicate the findings of this study with a larger sample and strategies that promote lower consumption rates should be prioritised by governments, businesses, and consumers.