Finger flexion and wrist extensor capacities in swedish climbers, related to strength, endurance and injury

Abstract: Climbing is a rapidly growing sport, and the inclusion in the 2021 Olympics will further push the popularity.  The numerous originalities of Sport climbing (SC) is the intense use of finger, hands and forearms to displace the body on vertical to fully overhangning wall profiles. Therefore, climbers are prone to specific injuries different from many other sports, mainly located in the fingers and hand. The main objective of this study was to evaluate the relationship between finger flexion (FF) and wrist extension (WE) for force max (F-max) and force average (F-avg). Another aim of the study was to analyse the ratio between FF and WE in regards of injuries. A total of 26 climbers were tested on two separate occasions for underarm capacities in FF in a half crimped position and WE.  Isometric contraction was measured for F-max during a three sec interval and anaerobic power, F-avg, during a 30 sec interval. Correlation between variables were analysed by linear regression and one way ANOVA was used to analyse previously injured vs non injured groups. Statistical significance was set at P = 0.05. This study found that climbers showed a significant relationship between FF and WE for both the F-max and 30s F-average tests R² > 0.30, P < 0.004. This can be valuable information for climbers and coaches for training. Furthermore an increased ratio was seen in more experienced climbers, and the same group also showed a higher prevalence of injuries than moderate climbers.