Indigenous peoples’ self-determination - Market-inclusion or not? The case of indigenous designs in the international fashion industry

Abstract: In recent years the focus on indigenous peoples’ self-determination has been increasing. However, the debate on how to achieve this is rather divided. This study examines whether Slowey’s (2008) theoretical assumption, that market-inclusion leads to increased self-determination, holds in a different context. In the study, the theory is applied to indigenous peoples’ market-inclusion through intellectual property right protection, in the global fashion industry. The study aims to examine How market-inclusion affects indigenous peoples’ self-determination and is designed as a combined comparative case study, encompassing the Most Similar System Design and Most Different System Design. The method is used to analyse three cases of indigenous market-inclusion into the global fashion industry to establish whether the theoretical assumption holds. The findings suggest that market-inclusion influences indigenous self-determination. However, the type of market-inclusion appears to determine whether the indigenous community experienced a short-term or long-term increase in self-determination. Additionally, having a strong strategy for how to decrease dependency on the state, is found to contribute to ensuring a long-term increase in self-determination.