A Theoretical Analysis of Labour Exploitations in the New British Readymade Garment Industry using the 'Sweatshop Regime' Theory

Abstract: The recent phenomena of reshoring apparel manufacturing back to the UK has developed economic opportunities for the British garment industry alongside worsening labour conditions and social costs for its workers. Historic and ongoing international debates and research that have focused on the topic of labour conditions of global apparel manufacturing have been achieved and published using the sweatshop regime theory, which here is defined as the unjust and socially oppressive labour system of garment manufacturing. This study theoretically analysed the data gathered from historic and contemporary research reports and official national and governmental online platforms with the aim of analysing the extent to which this theoretical framework can be applied to the new British readymade garment industry. The principal results of this thesis include: an underpayment of national minimum wages, the lack of written employment contracts, the use of subcontracting, gender and social division of labour, unpredictable overtime and undertime, illegal breaching of health and safety standards and a limited trade union presence. The case of contemporary British garment manufacturing can thus be contextualised within the wider global garment commodity chain, highlighting the degree to which exploitative labour practices are also being implemented in Britain, as well as overseas in countries of the global South.