Providing Circular Clothing : A multiple-case study on Swedish clothing companies, analyzing product design and business models

Abstract: This thesis investigates the manifestations of circular business models and circular product design strategies in the Swedish clothing industry, using a multiple case study approach that examines five Swedish clothing companies. Guided by the first research question: What are the current circular product design strategies and circular business model strategies for companies operating in the Swedish clothing industry? the findings reveal an emphasis on circular product design strategies compared to circular business models, among the studied clothing companies. Prominent product design strategies encompass timeless and adaptable designs, utilization of high-quality materials, rigorous product testing, and a focus on minimizing components, while permanent collections and standard spare parts are less frequently used. Regarding circular business models, the study reveals an adoption of strategies such as repair, reuse, internal upcycling, and recycling. Conversely, approaches such as clothing rental- and subscription services, secondhand- and repair services as well as collaborations for repair and refurbishment are employed to a lesser extent.  In addition, the study explores the influencing factors that determine the adoption or non-adoption of these circular approaches, guided by a second research question: What are the factors that influence the companies to adopt, or not to adopt circular product design strategies and circular business model strategies? The study reveals that the companies prioritize producing durable goods, but that challenges emerge in achieving a balance between circular objectives and material quality, without compromising either aspect, especially within childrenswear and workwear that has certain requirements. Despite these challenges, the companies both exhibit a commitment to integrating circular practices into their operations, aswell as show a willingness to explore new and innovative circular product design concepts, including increased utilization of mono- and recyclable materials. Another significant challenge lies in the alignment of circular business models with existing organizational practices, which requires substantial organizational transitions. However, permanent collections are found to be a potential facilitator for circularity within the clothing industry, as it allows for comprehensive testing, feedback loops, streamlined supply chains, things of which could enable better opportunities for both circular product designs, and circular business models such as repair- and secondhand services. The study highlights future trends in circular business models, including a focus on repair services, secondhand offerings, and enhanced recycling practices. The research contributes to the understanding of the adoption of circular strategies in the clothing industry and underscores the need for further investigations into the influencing factors at play and the implications across international contexts.