Barriers with social and environmental compliance : A qualitative study of compliance in supply chains within the clothing industry

Abstract: There is an increased public pressure on clothing brands to consider environmental and social issues when sourcing from suppliers in developing countries, and to ensure that their supply chain partners do the same. However, social, and environmental issues within the clothing industry are complex with many actors involved. Avoidance of compliance with social and environmental requirements are not uncommon and contributes to the continuing exploitation of humans and environment in the country of production, thus hindering the possibility of social change. This study investigates the perceived challenges with sustainability initiatives in supply chains within the global clothing industry and takes on a qualitative research approach with an interpretive basis. This study investigates the barriers to achieve social and environmental compliance through a content analysis of four global clothing brands supply chain governance strategies, and by interviews with two NGOs. The empirical findings shows that suppliers face increase compliance requirements with additional costs on their side, but with no financial support from clothing brands. Consequently, the perceived injustice between input costs and gains contribute to that suppliers avoid compliance to balance their additional costs.