Development and Evaluation of an Enzyme-Based Sunscreen

Abstract: Ultraviolet radiation (UVR), specifically of UVA and UVB, has been associated with the development of both photoaging and photo-carcinogenesis, potentially leading to cancer. The use of sun protection in the form of UV filters is known to minimize these damages. By introducing an enzyme-based sunscreen for daily facial use these damages may be reduced while also providing exfoliation and hydration to the skin. Enzymes as exfoliating agents are gentle compared to mechanical or chemical exfoliating agents and in combination with inorganic UV filters, which in turn are considered more gentle than organic UV filters, this will minimize the risk of skin irritation and allergic reactions. The primary objective of this project is to develop a product with favorable cosmetic properties while maintaining enzyme activity and stability, as well as protecting against a broad spectrum of UVR. Multiple formulations were prepared, each containing protease enzymes and inorganic UV filters and were each evaluated based on the parameters mentioned above. Enzyme activity was assessed by measuring the amount product produced by the of hydrolysis of substrate during a defined time period using a protease assay. The absorbance and transmittance of the formulations were measured to assess their efficiency in shielding against the UV wavelengths. Formulations demonstrating low enzyme stability or unpleasant sensational characteristics were gradually excluded from further development. Consequentially, three samples were further evaluated in the sense of customer satisfaction by volunteer participants testing the samples and answering theoretical and practical questions to gain a better understanding of which formulation to proceed with and potentially introduce to the market. Taking in all aspects evaluated the formulation containing UV filter Z1 has been proved to be the most preferred.